The Diplomat
Overview
A young student comes to visit the observation point on Hokkaido's' northern coast. From here, you can see the former Japanese islands of the Northern Territories (as drawn on the map on the pavement).
A young student comes to visit the observation point on Hokkaido's' northern coast. From here, you can see the former Japanese islands of the Northern Territories (as drawn on the map on the pavement).
Photo by Cristian Martin Grimaldi
Cover Story

Japan’s Tangled Territorial Dispute With Russia

In northernmost Hokkaido, residents can easily see Russian-held islands that once belonged to Japan. Some still hold out hope for the islands’ return.

By Cristian Martini Grimaldi

The war in Ukraine, 8,000 kilometers away, may seem distant to most inhabitants of the Japanese archipelago. But there is an exception: the people of Hokkaido. From here, Russia is close – very close, just across the bay. You don’t even need a pair of binoculars; you can see it with your naked eyes, as I did during a recent visit to northeast Hokkaido.

One of the Russian islets of Habomai is just 3.7 kilometers away. For comparison, the longest bridge in Japan is the Akashi bridge in Kobe, which is 3.9 km long. Were these friendly neighbors, Japan and Russia could share expenses and build a bridge, which people could use to literally walk between the countries.

But these are not friendly neighbors – not anymore, at least. Certainly not since Russian President Vladimir Putin ordered the invasion of Ukraine and Japan, along with other 30 other countries, imposed sanctions on Russia. But the hostility didn't begin with Ukraine. It goes far back into the past – 77 years, to be precise.

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The Authors

Cristian Martini Grimaldi is a freelance Italian journalist living in Japan contributing for La Repubblica and La Stampa. His latest book is “Japan does it better?”

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